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Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 10:09:49 -0500
Author: "Deanne Hart" <dhart@idc.com>
Subject: [PPMT]S2: Security Issues Related to Mtn Tourism in Nepal

Dr. Sicroff:

Thank you for informing me about your moderating a new panel on Security Issues Related to Tourism in Nepal. As you know, this is a subject I have been following for more than a decade now, since the mysterious disappearance of my sister, former Peace Corp volunteer, Nancy Hart, from several days out from the Jiri roadhead en route to Sagarmatha state park in late December of 1987.

Nancy had just completed her 2.5 years of service as a PCV, having taught English at the primary school in Karkineta, Nepal during 1985-1987. Despondent over leaving her village, and left in Kathmandu awaiting a flight out in early January to meet another retired PCV in Bangladesh, Nancy had made plans for a 2 week trek to Everest Base Camp in mid to late December, 1987. At the last minute, Nancy's trekking companion, another retired PCV by the name of Tony Bondurant, was unable to accompany on her this trek due to the fact that his father suddenly died and he needed to return to the US immediately.

Because she had already made plans to do the trek, had purchased the permits and wanted to get out of K-Du, Nancy made the decision to continue with her trekking plans. Her thinking was, since she was so upset at the thought of leaving her life in Nepal behind, a good way to deal with it would be to take one last trek in order to view Everest (a once in a lifetime opportunity for many young Americans) and to "walk her blues away."

Nancy never made it to Sagarmatha. She was reported overdue from her trek in early to mid-January by her colleague awaiting her arrival in Dakka, Bangladesh. At that point the US Embassy was contacted by the Peace Corps office in K-Du, since technically Nancy was considered a private citizen having completed her PCV service as of December 5th. The US Embassy immediately dispatched a consular officer into the field and he was able to subsequently track Nancy's journey from the road head at Jiri to several points along the way on the Namche trek.

Nancy was traveling fast, having made it to the village of Junbesi in the late afternoon of Dec. 24th (she got off the bus in Jiri on 22nd!). Nancy checked into a trekker's lodge in Junbesi on Christmas eve, 1987 and from that point on her whereabouts are unknown and she is, according to US State Dept reports, considered most likely to be the victim of foul play.

Nancy Hart was an experienced traveler, athlete, and Nepali customs and language expert. She did not dress ostentatiously, and followed the Nepali custom of wearing a skirt for her trek - since at this time many Nepali's were still offended by seeing Western women in pants or shorts. Nancy carried her own bags, did not employ a porter since she was sticking to the main trail, and was simply not the type to hire someone to carry her gear. Nancy knew the dangers of traveling alone as a woman in Nepal, however she made the mistake of sticking to her plans as she really wanted to leave Nepal on a happy note by being able to say she traveled to Everest state park.

Despite being in good physical shape, and having penetrating insights into Nepali customs and behaviour, in addition to being fluent in Nepali - Nancy took unnecessary risks by traveling alone during this off-season tourist timeframe.

To this day we do not know what happened to Nancy, but have ruled out death by accident on the trail. A Canadian woman who went missing right around the same time frame as Nancy, and who the authorities originally suspected may have been a related case, was subsequently found at the bottom of a ravine in the Solu Khumbu region. Her belongings were with the body, and her death was ruled an accident. Nancy remains a missing person, presumed to be the victim of foul play. I urge all travelers to Nepal, no matter how experienced you are to never travel alone. Be careful hiring your porters, treat all with respect and do not - especially if you're female -- travel alone under any circumstances. If you ever go missing, your family will be very hard pressed to find out what happened due to the lack of infrastucture and professional investigation techniques in the Kingdom. Not to mention the police corruption, prejudice toward women, and government instability.

If anyone has any questions for me please do not hesitate to contact me. I spent a total of 5 months, in two separate visits to Nepal, and can provide a lot of insight as to what to do, and what not to do if you ever find yourself in this situation where a loved one disappears in Nepal.

Peace.

Dee Hart
Boston, MA
------------------

Moderator's Comments

I would like to thank Dee Hart for sharing this painful story.

Of course, we would like to see some lessons learned from any such experience. "Don't trek alone" is one attractive conclusion, but it is not the last word. I have trekked alone many times, and in general prefer to be alone with my thoughts on the trail, if not at the teahouse at the end of the day.

True, I am a man and don't run precisely the same risks, but even a simple fall can be fatal, and these past years when there there have been Maoists and also bands of armed bandits posing as Maoists, everyone is at risk; in fact, to judge by current anecdotes, groups of trekkers have been mugged in Nepal more often than single trekkers. Regardless of the risks, trekking alone is a choice, and it is not an idiotic one, either. Who criticized the "58-year-old grandmother" who recently began a trek across Nepal in the name of peace?

Who criticizes Reinhold Messner for climbing Everest solo?

One last point: local people very frequently know who commits crimes. At a certain point, the us-them notions can and should break down, and there will be more cooperation with efforts to arrest and punish criminals.

Any comments? -Seth Sicroff


Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 16:45:35 -0500
Author: "Ujol" <himboy@hotmail.com>
Subject: [PPMT]S2: "Rule of 3"

It saddened me to read about the disappearance of a PCV, Nancy Hart. I do agree that TREKKING ALONE in remote mountainous destinations is not a good idea [but who will tell that to the backpackers who've come half-way around the globe (incurring significant expenses) and want to go it alone ], if you consider the possible consequences. The bragging right that comes with trekking alone and soloing Mt. Everest is not to be easily dismissed as a reason (usually unacknowledged) for why some people go it alone. People build careers and reputations on just such a thing.

While working as a ranger in northern New Mexico (in the foothills of the Sangre De Cristos) in my late teens, I was taught that when trekking/hiking in remote areas or doing caving or rock climbing, the absolute minimum number of people that should undertake any of these is three ("Rule of 3"): the reason being that if A gets hurt or gets into an emergency situation, B can stay with him/her administering first aid/CPR, etc., while C goes to seek help. In most hiking/trekking situations this strategy - 'safety in number' - could work although enforcing this on the backpackers who make up a significant % of tourists visiting Nepal, is not easy...after all, they've come to enjoy the 'freedom of the hills' (incidentally there is a book by that name), not to be restrained by man-made rules. In most cases walking alone is not a problem: most backpackers walk the oft-beaten tracks anyway during the tourist season. Even if they journey alone, they are likely to run into many others like them - potential Good Samaritans, in case they run into trouble.

It is only when they veer off the beaten track to blaze their own trails far from civilization (and basic facilities) that they should be aware of the 'safety in number' strategy, and be better prepared because you never know.

In some situations though, safety cannot be sought in numbers alone. One has only to recall the violent storm that killed most of the Everest climbing party in the Spring of 1996. Some observers have argued that 'over-crowding' on the slopes actually made the matter worse.

Well, well, there will always be that classic trade-off between freedom and security. Even the 'rule of 3' is at best only a rule of thumb.

-Ujol
----

Moderator's Comments

Ujol makes a valid point about adjusting one's trekking strategy according to the terrain. Traveling alone is almost always a bit riskierthat traveling with a companion or two. However, the Everest trail, from Jiri right up to Everest Base Camp, is a super highway. There is virtually no ambiguity about the trail. If you're ever lost, you can ask "Namche?" from as far away as Jiri, and everybody will tell you the route. I've taken wrong turns a few times, but always someone has run after me to point out the mistake. After Namche, the trail is even clearer, and more heavily traveled. Only the bit from Gorak Shep to Base Camp can be a bit dicey for a first timer, but during the trekking season there are always other people around.

In my opinion, trekking alone is not a question of bragging rights. It's a question of setting your own pace, of stopping to go to the bathroom when you feel like it, of not having to listen to somebody yammering at you when you're concentrating on surviving the climb from Kenja to Sete. And nobody has ever been the least bit impressed about my trekking anywhere, alone or not. After all, it's just walking.

Anyway, maybe we should focus a bit on the Everest issue. I've already posted some ideas in paragraph 4 of my lead essay for Session II at <http://www.mtnforum.org/apmn/paper2.htm>.

 Comments please! -seth sicroff


Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 23:08:21 +0000
Author: "paramjeet singh" <sparamjeet@hotmail.com>
Subject: [PPMT]S2: Re: Security issues in remote mountainous destinations

The issue of Security of visitors is an important one specially in the context of Himalayas due to their scale, remoteness and a near absence of modern infrastructure.I agree with Dr. Sicroff that trekking alone is very rarely a bragging issue. Similarly exploring remote regions or pushing the limits in adventure pursuits in the Himalayas be it climbing or something else, is not always motivated by sponsorship or fame, however much the media and industry might want us to believe. The pull of the Himalayas as a dream destination also generates from the very uncertainty of guaranteed security that we are discussing about.

Organized and systematized visitor security which may go hand in hand with elaborate modern infrastructure like roads and airstrips and policing and high tech refuges and lodges and this would definitely make the Himalayas more accessible to mass tourism. The resultant gains may look rosy but the need of the consumer societies to turn pristine wildernesses into well packaged and sanitized playgrounds is debatable.

Besides being a purely aesthetic issue- mass tourism is also an issue which has implications on the balance between economic gain and resource conservation.

Paramjeet Singh
---------------
MODERATOR'S COMMENTS

Another vote for insecurity! By way of contrast, I have posted a couple of photos from the summit of Mt. Fuji, Japan: http://namche.net/fuji.html
The question is: Can a destination serve all markets? Can you have your cake and eat it too?

-seth sicroff


Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 09:40:36 +0500
Author: "muhdayaz" <muhdayaz@brain.net.pk>
Subject: [PPMT]S2: Re: Security Issues in Remote Mountain Areas

An interesting and useful discussion has been going on for various aspects of safety in the remote mountainous regions, mostly about the geo-physical hazards, like earthquakes, land slides, avalanches and unpredictable climatic conditions.

Besides the geo-physical hazards, there are some other categories of hazards as well, which could become a major concern for the safety of visiting tourists.

Respect for locals: The indigenous mountain dwellers must be respected, under all circumstances. I have personally witnessed that some tourists openly ridicule locals due to a number of reasons. Use of derogatory language, foul behavior and a general lack of respect can cause serious clashes amongst the locals and tourists, where the later is always a minority.

Lack of cultural harmony: In some closed-door and highly conservative societies like Afghanistan and Pakistan, the tourist must blend him/her-self with local culture as far as possible. For example, men and women walking in shorts through populated areas can become a cause of serious clashes.

Similarly photography of womenfolk is often not liked in such like societies.

Respect for religious values: Due to number of contributing factors, land-locked remoteness being a major one, these societies have always been highly religious. Their tolerance level to any religious critique is fairly low. Some travelers make open criticism to their religious values and practices, both. Such an attitude could lead to a number of security threats.

Besides physical environment, respect for religious and socio-cultural environment is likely to play a most significant role for developing a better bondage between locals and tourists. Mountain dwellers have always been the real custodians of nature. Hence, they require an utmost respect.

For adequate mitigation of these potential hazards the best will be to employ a trained local guide, not the one from down country who is invariably ignorant about local values. It is the primary job of guide to coach the visitors about many such aspects of potential conflicts.

Ayaz Khan
---------

MODERATOR'S COMMENTS

Ayaz Khan has expanded the range of possibilities for blaming the tourist as victim. I think we all agree that it is best -- and safest -- to know as much as possible about the host culture, and to conscientiously avoid giving offense. The actual danger depends to a large degree on where you are. In my experience, Nepali villagers are remarkably tolerant and friendly. I would not expect the same in Afghanistan, however.

Having visited that country on several occasions prior to the breakdown of the overland route, I witnessed numerous arbitrary assaults on tourists, generally by kids who threw stones at them just as they routinely threw stones at dogs.

It is true that there are plenty of very nice people in Afghanistan, but it is basically a bandit country, where warlords have for generations thrown chains across the roads and shaken down travelers.

As for hiring a guide, there are clearly lots of people who appreciate the company. Personally, I'd rather stay home.

Other views? -Seth Sicroff


Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 13:52:56 +0545
Author: Suman Rai <srai@icimod.org.np>
Subject: [PPMT]S2: Re: Security Issues in Remote Mountain Areas

The question of security is mutual. Villagers in remote areas are equally insecure when strangers (trekkers) pass their way. This is especially so in off the beaten tracks where there is no habit of seeing a stranger. In off the beaten track it is best to be in a group rather than alone.

Strange but true that local communities trust a group more than an individual. Often a lone person going about creates suspicion and can be intercepted by locals to clear their suspicion and insecurity. And the process of clarify things is not very pleasant especially if one cant communicate because of local dialect. And it becomes quite nerve racking when you attract attention and get surrounded by children, women, men and even the dogs.

Suman
-------

MODERATOR'S COMMENT

Well, here's yet another vote against trekking alone. Frankly, it strikes me both as counter-intuitive and completely against all of my experience: traveling alone in Nepal, I have always been welcomed with warmth and respect (because I did not rely on a guide or porter). Off the beaten track, I have been invited to eat and sleep in very modest quarters that could not have accommodated a group.

Even supposing there are places where people trust groups more than individuals, what are we supposed to do about that? It's one thing to ask tourists to respect local customs about dress, religion, and so on -- quite another to expect them to jump through hoops because of unfounded suspicions. In my opinion, if those places really do want tourists, they'd better get over the phobia.

No? -seth sicroff


Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 15:28:08 +0530
Author: Alka Sabharwal <asabharwal@icimod.org.np>
Subject: [PPMT]S2: Re: Security Issues in Remote Mountain Areas

Friends, I should appreciate Sicroff's mandate to keep the discussion focused without a bias! Responding to Ayaz's mail and its interpretation by Sicroff. I think the biggest risk involve when communities themselves are not prepared/ ready to cater to tourism and it is pushed down by respective state or travel agencies. We all know host communities can be very well victim of the large decision making processes without their consent. I agree with Sicroff, the risks involved in such circumstances would differ from region to region and hence the tourist's experience. Histories are part of every culture and we should not forget they are reaction to certain circumstances and never a frozen truth. They also change. But the problem lies when such historical/cultural sensitivities are undermined and not considered serious enough to introduce appropriate kinds of tourism. I would like to ask whether this discussion on security issues would wind up without really talking about the participation of host communities in risk management and their willingness to support or resist tourism and its effects on risks faced by tourists. And can always modern risk evading infrastructure help without the support of local communities, especially in remote regions?

Alka Sabharwal

ICIMOD


Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 08:13:28 -0400
Author: "Peter Zahler" <pzahler@hotmail.com>
Subject: [PPMT]S2: Re: Security Issues in Remote Mountain Areas

As someone who has worked in northern Pakistan, as well as Afghanistan and Iran since 1992, I have to wholly endorse Mr. Khan's comments and take issue with some of yours. There is obviously a great difference between Nepal and Western Asia, and between Nepalese and Afghanis. But I think it is incredibly important that this be recognized and stressed, not slid past.

While I don't want to slip into your straw man of "blame the tourist," the fact is that I saw repeated and seemingly endless events of (often unconscious) disrespect in these countries by foreigners throughout my time there, ranging from wearing those comfy lycra shorts to asking where to buy good pot. I was certainly on the edge of throwing stones at these morons -- they made my job MUCH harder at the very least, if not much more dangerous, by creating an anger and potential backlash at the stupid ignorant arrogant West, of which I was unfortunately a part by default.

Western Asia is different from the Rockies, or the Alps, or the Nepal Himalayas. It has dramatically different customs, and luckily one of those customs is great patience toward visitors. But understandably that only goes so far.

As for refusing to hire a guide -- well that didn't work for Ken Gillette. Frankly, I would NEVER trek in Northern Pakistan without a guide. Besides the incredible physical dangers of the area, and difficult-to-find-and-follow routes, the people are not all friendly slap-happy natives eager to see your shiny face. A local guide who speaks the local language, knows the local routes and customs, and can advise against idiotic if ignorant actions (and potentially dangerous people), is as essential as good shoes. Even for someone like me, who has worked in those hills since 1992. And I might add that it helps the local economy. Giving a little back to the people whose baby potato plants you're tromping on is not a bad thing at all.

If you don't want to hire a guide, definitely stay home. It would be safer for everyone, including me.

Oh, and Afghanistan is by far the most beautiful country I've ever been in, having spent a good part of last summer there, and the people treated me with the utmost respect and kindness.

I wouldn't recommend it for tourists yet, what with regular outbreaks of violence and 10 million land mines, but a "bandit country"? Try 23 straight years of war, and even Eugene Oregon would go bad.

Peter Zahler


Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 11:46:12 -0500
Author: Guillermo García Zamora <andinito1@yahoo.es>
Subject: [PPMT]S2: Re: Security issues in remote mountainous destinations

I contact you to share my ideas and thoughts on the topic security in mountain areas. As I have read in the presentations of other participants, the topic of the security in the mountainous areas is quite broad. In this case I want to share what happens in a one part of Mendoza, Argentina (not Aconcagua). This place began to be used as acclimatization place by many expeditions that intended to climb Aconcagua, due to the beauty of the landscape and the possibility of acclimatization to high elevation. Last December I went with some friends up the highest peak in the area and we found commercial dining facilities! At that height (4200 meters), the prices are naturally high, but how high is too high? Do we really want to invest that kind of money, and harm the environment, in order to sell a hamburger and a coca-cola? It seems that adventure tourism is opening the way for people that are not prepared to face the difficulties and unpredictabilities of mountains. Do we want to market the mountains as if they were spas? How can governments of developing countries supply helicopters and rescue services, when these countries have other priorities such as education and health? Are we abandoning adventure when we refuse to assume the natural risks? Will we, as Edward Whimper foresaw, be the "favored" few among the billions who will never have the chance to see the natural beauty of the mountains?

Guillermo Garcia Zamora
----------------

MODERATOR's COMMENTS

Guillermo García Zamora laments the gentrification of our mountain legacy. But isn't there a difference between turning peaks into walk-ups, on the one hand, and providing some kind of search and rescue service? As for competing priorities, shouldn't search and rescue be funded by the users? And doesn't the tourism market to some extent fund other government functions such as health and education? Just asking. -Seth Sicroff


From: Mingma Norbu Sherpa <minmonju@wlink.com.np>
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2003 22:31:56 +0530
Subject: [PPMT]S2: Security issues in mountain tourism

Dear participants,

From the records of police checkposts in Khumbu area, it is very often found that trekkers claim that their valuable belongings such as cameras, binaculors, etc are lost. By fraud reporting, they take a clearance letter from the police and claim for insurance back in the country. Such type of tourist bahaviour also damages the images of the destinations. Comparatively, Khumbu region is very safe 
and peace. Your thoughts and ideas on this issues will be appreciated.

Mingma Norbu Sherpa (Monju)


From: Phuntshok Tshering <ptshering@icimod.org.np
Date sent: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 12:25:31 +0545
Subject: [PPMT]S2: Re: Security Issues in Remote Mountain Areas

May I first say that this pre-Namche e-conference is a very well organized and commendable one. The style of moderation adopted in this appears to me to be a very effective and efficient one and I congratulate Dr. Seth Sicroff for it !

Among the opening lines of this e-consultation I read somewhere that it was meant to focus “specifically on issues that are of concern to the residents of remote mountain tourism destinations”. But I missed this much needed concern for local people in most of the comments that I had a chance to glance thru….on the important topic of ‘Issues of security in remote mountain areas’.

For me, what comes through as an unambiguous message ..is  the concern for the safety and security of all the strangers (professionals, visitors, tourists and trekkers who, generally speaking, among other good intentions also go to make a living off the remote areas as well as for adventure, excitement, pleasure etc.) not of the local residents.

No doubt there is ample reference to local ‘dwellers’ and the need of tourists and visitors to be super-sensitive to the local traditions and customs and culture., which is good. But as long as we do that (in however many ways ?) everything is okay kind-of message is what one tends to interpret and understand.

Just as a gentle reminder, in terms of ownership of spaces and rights to some delicate but basic aspects of life and living such as privacy (over which there is always much hue and cry in western societies)  aren’t we entering (invading?) into the spaces, spaces which have been lived by local communities for centuries even if, isolated ? Never mind the wideness, the openness, the wilderness and the remoteness ….it’s their space, no ? So in actual fact don’t you think the issue of security / insecurity that local people in far flung and isolated remote mountains experience vis-à-vis guests of all sorts deserve some attention ? What is their perspective and how do they feel ? How safe are they supposed to feel ? Are we all angels who pass by their doors ??

I do not have any answers to all these and more but I certainly feel that we need to look at the issue from that angle. When people leave rural as well remote mountain areas to other parts usually in the lowlands and more developed urban areas, in search of ‘better’ life, we have appropriate terms for them  - rural-urban migration, out-migration etc.. In normal ‘development’ language these are phenomena to be noted and ‘studied’, not necessarily considered positive for various strong reasons including the effects on gender relations and increase of women’s workload etc.. (although this is fast changing too as many young women leave homes to work in town and cities). This is our perspective. When we trek into their lands, knock on their doors and expect them to accept us with a smile ..what goes on in their minds ? what is their perspective ? Do we want to know before we decide it’s our right to walk thru them and over them with our rescue helicopters, scientific equipments and all ! Is it all noble, altruistic and romantic ideals that drive people to the poor mountains ? for their livelihoods’ improvements ? What shall we call this type of migration ? Is this increasing flow or migration of strangers a cause for some of the issues of security, conflicts, garbage, soil erosion, male out-migration, cultural erosion etc..? I don’t know to be honest.

Phuntshok Tshering  
-------------------

Moderator's Comments

Phuntshok Tshering is concerned about the asymmetry of the treatment of security issues, and draws attention particularly to the "insecurity" of having one's homeland invaded by transients.

I think the problem is largely semantic. The fact of the matter is that tourists generally do not pose a threat to the physical security of their hosts. (Nor, in Nepal, do hosts pose generally pose much of a physical threat to guests.) The problems you are referring to are generally categorized as "impact," and most germane to the topic of our first session.

Unfortunately, I think, the impact discussion focused far too much on garbage, which happens to be a visitor's concern. There were many other impact issues that could have been discussed - out-migration, loss of privacy, economic distortion, cultural commodification among them. But our organizational premise was that the first session would be largely focused on issues more pertinent to local residents, while the second would be more focused on outsider perspectives.

However, there are clearly security issues that do concern local people and people from neighboring districts; these include natural hazards and porter safety.

One other point: the issue of tourist security in the context of mountain tourism is premised on the assumption that the local people want tourism. If they do, then it is to their interest to enhance the appeal of the destination, particularly with regards the personal safety of visitors. If they don't want tourists, then that is another kettle of fish entirely. -Seth Sicroff


From: "muhdayaz" <muhdayaz@brain.net.pk>
Subject:  [PPMT]S2: Re: Security Issues in Remote Mountain Areas
Date sent: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 12:02:09 +0500

Though a little belated, but I'll still like to respond to some of the comments.

The subject issue of security in the remote mountain localities is a bilateral issue, certainly not a unilateral one. The risks involved are two folds. Where the visitor feels some degree of natural or man-made threats, at the same time the local communities also have some threats from the visiting tourists. I am sure in this context several examples can be quoted from different parts of the globe. I have myself witnessed a number of tourists the way they become a threat to the poor locals. Hence, let's not get defensive.

I do not agree with Moderator's comments to my e-mail of 11 April 2003 that tourists are being blamed. Certainly not. Well! One could call it a cautionary note to any potential tourists against socio-cultural and religious threats. At the same time I also do not agree with his derogatory remarks that "Afghanistan is basically a bandit country". I don't know what is the reaction of an Afghan for such remarks? The objective of discussion is not to pass such like judgments about an entire country. Perhaps because of current turmoil in Nepal due to Maoist rebels, one can make an identical remark about Nepal as well, for which he/she will be totally wrong. One also has to view the past Afghan scenario of civil war spread over more than two decades. Every culture has its own merits and de-merits. One can't make socio-cultural scenarios of Nepal congruent with Afghanistan.

Besides, geo-physical security factors like land-slides, avalanches and earthquakes etc, socio-cultural and socio-religious threats are also a ground reality against the host communities as well as against the tourists.

I do agree with Moderator's remarks that unfortunately in the past there have been some unpleasant instances in places like Afghanistan. But, let's not forget that each instance has its own perspective. The entire blame cannot be attributed to host communities, alone. Mountain communities have their own limitations, where poverty is mostly predominant. Hence, any visiting tourist brings them some meager income generation opportunities.

Because of this factor they always welcome such visitors. However, communities like Afghans and some valleys of Northern Pakistan are certainly aggressive by nature. But, at the same time they have unsurpassable traditions of exemplary hospitality, as remarked by Mr. Peter Zahler.

Ayaz


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